Under the Stars on Katahdin
September 5-6, 2024
This hike of Katahdin was my 20th time up the mountain, and I had always wanted to try a sunrise climb, but had never quite gotten around to it. I'd been on that peak in every other condition I could think of - winter, snowfall, sleet, 50+ mph winds, sunshine, dead calm winds, in the clouds, downpours, you name it. But I had never hiked it in the dark for either sunrise or sunset.
I studied the forecast all week long, coming to the conclusion that Thursday night would be the best conditions to summit in the dark and not be unbearably cold or frozen by high winds. That Thursday morning, I was able to secure a tentsite at Abol Campground that someone had cancelled last minute, so I packed up my gear in the afternoon, and headed into the park that evening. I set my alarm for 1:00am, and got a few hours of shut eye.
The Abol Trail is the shortest route up the mountain at roughly 4 miles to the summit. Although short, it's still just as steep as the other trails, and is certainly a good climb once you're on the slide. I started at 1:30am, not quite knowing what my pace would be like in the dark. My only goals were to be up at the summit by 5-5:30am, and to see the stars above treeline before it got too light.
Being above treeline in pitch darkness was actually more eerie and spooky than I thought it would be. I expected to feel a lot safer out of the trees than down in them, where animals could be lurking (haha...), but I actually found it unsettling to look out at the view behind me and only see complete darkness. It looked like a pitch black abyss. There was a new moon just a few days prior, so there was no moonlight to brighten the atmosphere, literally and metaphorically.
Despite some unsettling moments, it was one of the most spectacular experiences in every other way. The stars were so incredibly bright, the winds were calm, and I felt very alone with the mountain, which was a truly powerful and special feeling. On my way through the tablelands, I took some long exposure photos of the stars, and noticed maybe a hint of aurora hues!
I ended up summiting around 4:30am, so I had quite a bit of time to sit at the summit and look at the stars. I also set up my phone on a small tripod and got a long exposure photo of me on the summit sign. It was pitch dark from my point of view, but with the 10 second exposure, I was able to capture the most brilliant sky I've ever seen! I couldn't believe my eyes when I looked to see how the photo came out.
I don't think I stopped smiling the entire time I was up there. Listening to the gusts of wind blowing over the summit. Turning off my headlamp to just be with the stars. The outline of the Knife Edge starting to appear as it got lighter. The stillness of the peak with no other hikers around. Shooting stars. The little lights of nearby towns. Chilly hands and a sniffly nose. The rest of the world sort of disappeared for a while and it became just me and my surroundings.
It's moments like those ones that are incredibly special to me and fill me with so much joy and excitement. Katahdin is no doubt one of the most stunning and unique places. I feel incredibly lucky to live so close to Baxter State Park and be able to do things like this!
